Tiño has been an authority in creating bespoke suits crafted by passionate Filipino artisans. While Tiño still has a flourishing store in Makati specializing in bespoke suits, shirts, and barongs, Tiño now has ready-to-wear casual jackets, too. Tiño has partnered with Urban Traveller & Co. in Greenbelt to cater to gentlemen who can just swing by and buy hand tailored garments.
Tiño showcases the Neapolitan jacket (“Giacca Napolitana” in Italian) as if it was handmade in Naples, Italy. Trained by an Italian tailor in Penne, Italy; Tiño master tailor Napoleon Arienza creates his version of a Neapolitan jacket without taking the major points from why a Neapolitan jacket is a “Neapolitan jacket”.
First and foremost, a Neapolitan jacket is made with a soft shoulder either with minimal pads or no pads at all.
Spalla camicia has minimum pads, which is more evident for Neapolitan sports jackets. Its construction is similar to a shirt sleeve wherein the seam allowance is tucked against the shoulder as opposed to against the sleeve. Because of its construction, natural puckering is formed flowing down from the sleeve head.
On the other hand, a Neapolitan suit is constructed with Con rollino (with roll) which shows a protruding bump or roll between the shoulder blade and the sleeves.
A Neopolitan jacket also has minimal silk lining inside to provide lightness. It is meant to fit like a second skin while still upholding a good structure. This construction is not limited to Neapolitan tailoring; it is also seen in many summer suits in Saville Row.
Tre bottoni stirato a due (Three-roll-two) chest buttons
For a single-breasted coat, the third button is hidden under the lapel roll. When ironed, this gives a roll that folds over the button. Unlike the two buttonholes, the third buttonhole is handmade into the lapel in an upside-down manner to give extra freedom of movement provided by a lower front opening.
Barchetta (little boat) and pignata (pot-shaped) pockets
The chest pocket of a Neapolitan jacket is formed like a stylized “little boat” with a rounded bottom while the side pockets are also equally curved similar to the shape of a pot. This particular element of the coat contributes to the sophisticated and elegant aesthetic of a traditional Neapolitan tailor.
Handmade final stitching
Tiño finishes each coat with a handmade final stitching. However, in creating a distinct Neapolitan jacket, the final stitching is a double handmade backstitch that runs along the sides of the lapel and pockets. The double backstitch on the lapel is also called Doppia Impuntura. This creates an impeccable and stunning detail as expected from the works of a Neapolitan tailor.
Shorter sleeve length
Neapolitan tailoring is all about comfort. Because of this, the sleeve length of the coat is shorter than usual, which avoids extra fabric hanging when a gentleman raises his hands. Also, Neapolitans love to show off their elegant shirt cuffs; shorter sleeves just give enough limelight to their cufflinks.
One classic element of suits that is applied in a Neapolitan jacket is the wide-width lapel, whether it’s for single-breasted or double-breasted coats. It is also famous for its classic a punta (peaked) lapel which is as wide as four inches.
A Neapolitan jacket has a higher opening over the shirt perfectly parallel to the lapels. This is also called scollo a martiello (hammer neck) and creates an illusion of a slender and taller figure.
Deep side vent
Neapolitan jackets go up to 12 inches deep. The darts (“pences” or “riprese”) in the front go all the way down to help the fabric follow the shape of the body.
Occhiello (little eye)
The lapel buttonhole is shaped like an elongated almond, which is slightly short and thicker compared to regular buttonholes of an English suit. This detail of the jacket is also handmade.
Handmade sleeve buttons
A signal of a bespoke suit is having functional or working buttonholes, which is already a signature of Tiño. However, for the Neapolitan jackets, it will be non-functional but still handmade to give a tailor allowance to tweak the sleeve length and compensate for the client’s requirements. Tiño sleeve buttons will be stacking, overlapping on each other.
Tiño is available at Urban Traveller & Co., 2nd floor of Greenbelt 5. Tiño also provides the suits at Spectre Manila.
2nd Floor 916 Luna Mencias Street, Addition Hills, Mandaluyong