Guys, suits aren’t just there because you need something to put on at a wedding, or basically any situation that calls for formal wear. As our favorite suit-wearing Barney Stinson says, “Suits are full of joy. They’re the sartorial equivalent of a baby’s smile.” A great suit can definitely help you look sharp, boost your confidence, and make you stand out from the crowd especially when it counts the most.
Of course, in order to spell the difference between “well-dressed” and “forced by the dress code”, you need to have a suit that fits well. They shouldn’t be too tight nor too loose on the shoulders, the sleeves shouldn’t fall more than an inch below your wrist, and your pants’ hems shouldn’t be too long. Basic stuff. Yet more than just the basics, the makings of a great suit include details you may have missed or thought were just “pandagdag-arte”. Here are suit details you never really knew about — until now.
You know that tiny pocket just above your suit jacket’s right hip pocket? Although you can hardly fit anything in, the ticket pocket actually originated in history as something to hold a man’s ticket, back in the day when most people in Europe traveled by train. You may not see these anymore in off-the-rack jackets, but bespoke suits will always add this detail.
Button-hole by the lapel
Ever wondered why your suit lapel, aka your suit jacket’s “collar” has a hole or slit in it? No, no one slashed it with a blade while you weren’t looking — it’s actually meant to hold the boutonniere. While your prom and graduation rites might have introduced the boutonniere as a tacky flower piece, done right, it’s considered as a standout accessory. Just look at Cary Grant.
Inner jacket pocket
Although it may seem tempting to do so, never place your wallet in your suit jacket’s outer pocket. It’ll create an unsightly bulge that will take away from the suit’s silhouette. Stow it instead— and other objects, for that matter — in your suit jacket’s inner pocket. You may also do this for opera tickets, envelopes, a whiskey flask, and small gifts. Not only are they more secure inside, you’ll look dashing as hell fishing your stuff out from the inside.
Suit vents may vary according to the style. The English calls for two, the American one, while Italian suits have none. Vents allow men flexibility and room to move, but to what extent will depend on the kind of suit you get. An English suit, for example, gives the most mobility, while the Italian suit, with no vents, can restrict movement.
“Kissing” button sleeves
Your button sleeves can tell you a lot about the quality of your suit. They can be spaced out, they can be stacked against each other, or they could be close to each other — touching ever so slightly, they’re almost “kissing”. Kissing button sleeves are usually functional instead of just sewn on — a hallmark of a high-quality, bespoke suit.
Number of buttons on suit jacket
Ever wondered why some suits have one button, some have two, and others have three? Depending on the kind of suit, each number of buttons has its rules. One button is usually seen on tuxedos, two buttons are the most versatile look, while three buttons look best on tall men.
The general rule is to never fasten the bottom button. Single-button suits are naturally buttoned, while the two-buttona and three-button suits completely leave the bottom button alone. You can have options for the three-button suit: either you button the top two and leave the bottom unfastened, or you just fasten the center button and nothing else.
Interested in checking out custom-made suits? Spectre Manila in Mandaluyong holds the ready-to-wear and made-to-measure line of Tiño, a bespoke suit shop in the country. They create amazing suits with serious value for money.
Spectre Manila is located at 916 Luna Mencias, Mandaluyong City.
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